Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Talking Stones

 No water – that’s why we left Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the base of Dalatabad fort in Maharashtra India, pueblos in the American Southwest, Once-Green Arabia. Place after place no longer able to sustain life. Where will we go? We must go … to stay is to die … to leave is to hope. Menaced by hunger and thirst, we journeyed on the maybes of hope. We are all refugees, migrating from our once home into a vast unknown. Where can I drink? Where can I sleep? I choke on the dust. The sun blinds my eyes.

Using a 1986 map from National Geographic, we plotted the sites
that would give us the best picture of Ancestral Pueblo Culture.

Ancestral Pueblo Culture

In mid-September, my friend Nadine Cobb and I made a trip to explore the Ancestral Pueblo Culture of New Mexico, Colorado, and Arizona. The trip was a chance for Nadine to get an overview of the region she now calls home and for me it was an opportunity to do on-the-ground research for Eve’s Imprint. Please note that the word “Anasazi” is a misnomer for this early peopling of North America. It is a Navaho word meaning “ancestral enemies.” To use it shows disrespect for descendants of first Americans. The preferred term is 'Ancestral Pueblo Culture.'

Our itinerary took us in a loop northwest from Albuquerque, north to Colorado, southwest to Arizona, and then southeast back to Albuquerque. Our stops included:
  • New Mexico - Chaco Culture National Historical Park and Aztec Ruins National Monument  (misnamed by Spanish conquistadores when they stumbled upon evidence of early settlement)
  • Colorado - Mesa Verde National Park
  • Arizona - Canyon de Chelly National Monument
  • New Mexico - Acoma Pueblo, Petroglyph National Monument, and Bandelier National Monument.
The highly symbolic T shaped doorways found in
Chacho Canyon and as far south as northern Mexico
may symbolize lakes known to exist under mountains
where cliff dwellings are found.
While I read several books in preparation for the trip, the one that gave me the deepest understanding of the ‘Stonehenge of North America’ was House of Rain by Craig Childs. Searching for why people left their highly developed culture in Chaco Canyon and where they went, Childs unveils an ancient understanding of and symbiosis with the hydrological cycle. He has suggested a possible symbolic meaning for the T shaped doorways, as noted above.

Survival Involves Perpetual Motion

From time immemorial, for beasts of earth and sea as well as birds and bees in the sky, the drive to survive has driven hourly and daily life. Homo sapiens learned from their predecessor primates and other animals, including their predators, where to find and secure food. As hunter-gatherers, our ancestors followed schools of fish and herds of mammals to the best sources of water, forage and salt.

This prehistoric hunter has snagged a long-horned goat. 
And so it was that peoples of many ethnicities found their way through and over the Bering Strait into North America at least 12,000 (probably more) years ago. Amidst their seasonal rock shelter campsites they left traces of their wanderings. About 7500 years ago, two factors prompted these roaming family clans to hunt smaller animals and collect edible plants: drier and warmer climate as a result of the recession of the glacial sheet and the near extinction of large grazing animals by natural and human causes.

Staying Longer

Roving bands of basket makers began to stay longer in regions that provided a year-round supply of water. Over time, they built small pit houses, partially underground, and their highly portable baskets were supplemented by the pottery they learned to make. As a sedentary lifestyle took hold, they made improvements on their pit houses and developed above ground structures. They did not abandon the safety and community feeling of the old pit houses. Instead they turned them into kivas, places of ceremony, ritual and retreat.

Pit houses were entered through a smoke hole in the roof. As they evolved,
adobe became a preferred covering for the above ground part of the structure.
More and more, foraging turned into farming and the former wanderers tucked small fields into canyon corners and on mesas. People domesticated the turkey. As they figured out how to channel water to the fields, they could count on a consistent supply of squash, beans, and corn (a plant introduced from the south). Using yucca fibers, people made sandals and wove turkey feathers into blankets for warmth in the winter. Across the landscape of the Americas, dispersed households, large granaries, and public structures began to emerge.

Populations increased, a diversity of crafts emerged, and trade intensified - not just among diverse clans in the region but also with people as far away as Mexico and the west coast. With trade, new ideas percolated through existing patterns. In addition to occupying new areas, different ethic groups began to converge into small villages, increasing opportunities for social interaction, trade, and ceremony.

Pueblo Bonito in Chaco Canyon was one of a series
of great houses where people gathered to trade, to learn new skills,
to organize public work projects, and to hold ceremonies that
included use of McCaw feathers and copper bells from Mexico.

Cultural Enrichment Flourishes

Chaco Canyon in western New Mexico became a gathering place and spiritual center for many dispersed settlements. People in the canyon coalesced astrological wisdom that must have guided the hunter-gatherers of old. They wove this wisdom into ceremonies celebrating the movement of the sun and moon. Public structures built in Chaco are aligned with the movement of the sun and with the cardinal directions: east, south, west, north, above, and below.

Even with the Chaco River as a source of water, Chaco Canyon was an unlikely place to build large-scale kivas, great houses, and a vast network of roads. One can only surmise that a cross section of wise leaders and creative thinkers somehow arrived in ‘the middle of nowhere’ at the same time and sparked a cultural revolution. After about 300 years of expansion and amazing architectural feats, people began to leave Chaco Canyon and were virtually gone by 1200 CE (current era).

People moved from Chaco to Aztec Ruins and emulated its highly skilled masonry
 structures. Archeologist Earl H. Morris conducted excavations and studies at
Aztec Ruins for many years. One of his last contributions was to supervise
reconstruction of the Great Kiva according to all that he had learned.
Most likely a series of droughts forced Chaco's burgeoning population to disperse to better cropland and more abundant water. And disperse they did: to the north to the four corners area (Aztec Ruins and Mesa Verde), to the south (Rio Grande valley and beyond), and to the west (Canyon de Chelly and further west). They took the Chacoan culture with them. However, dispersion meant that all the skills, crafts, and wisdom that made Chaco great were no longer available to each group of migrants. The synergy of many creative minds was broken as settlers became migrants once again, but memory of Chaco’s accomplishments has never been lost.

Talking Stones

From the first hunter-gatherers who followed herds through North America to tribes from Canada that descended in the sixteenth century into regions left by Chacoan peoples, human beings left messages on the rocks and canyon walls through which they passed.

The central figure in this rock image from Utah
is startlingly similar to the Wandjina (creative force) image still
painted and revered by Aboriginals of Australia.
Some of the earliest rock images in the four corners region are similar to ones found in Southwest Asia and Central Asia. For example, a longhorn goat at the end of a long spiral closely resembles similar petroglyphs in Iraq and Iran. Were some of the wanderers into the American southwest descendants of, or related to, those who followed herds through Mesopotamia and into Central Asia? Photos of pictographs in Utah are startlingly similar to ones painted by Aboriginals in Australia. Did the coastal ramblings that took some of our early ancestors to Australia also continue north up the coast of Asia and across the Bering Strait?

Whether chipped or painted, rock images convey the human impulse to share one’s meaningful experiences with others.
  • This is the place through which I walked.
  • Mark this place where hunting was good so we can find it again.
  • Here in this auspicious place, let’s create a ceremony to the creator celebrating the gift of water when we were thirsty.
  • Maybe if we record our ceremony, we can hold it in our minds as we travel on.
  • If we make an image here, we can track the progress of the sun across it and predict when it will be best to plant our crops.
Recording of a ghost dance.
Our ancestors experienced all of the same impulses that drive us to send an email, post on Facebook, or keep a journal. Rock images remind us that we are them and they are us.


Except for the map, all photos are from Google Images.