Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Anticipating Spain

Guernica by Pablo Picasso
Arriving two hours apart at the airport in Bilbao in mid-October, my friend Karen and I will begin a two-week adventure in Northern Spain. We will be investigating Basque culture in the province of Pais Vasco, cave art in Cantabria, and evolution in Castile/Leon. With its now-famous Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao will be our base. We will make trips west for most of my picks (ancient evolutionary remains and cave art) and east for most of Karen’s picks (contemporary Basque culture and cuisine).

Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao designed by Frank Gehry.
Because we will be traveling in less urban areas, we’ve been boning up on Spanish through the use of the Pimsleur audio method of language acquisition. This being my first time to learn Spanish, my goal of mastering Spanish 1 will, hopefully, allow me to show respect for another culture. My daily 30-minute lesson right after lunch has become a sort of game as I enjoy the auditory puzzles it presents. Karen has studied Spanish before so she set a goal of mastering Spanish 2. We will be relying on her ability to read Spanish to get us on the right trains and buses.

West of Bilbao

Upon seeing the cave art at Altamira, Picasso exclaimed
that artists have achieved nothing since then.
Seeing cave art at Altamira and in other near-by caves in the province of Cantabria has long been a goal of mine. My paternal ancestral journey followed the northern edge of the Mediterranean Sea and spent time in the Iberian Peninsula during one of the last ice ages. Also this pre-agricultural site allows me to prepare for creating the Northern European section of my project tracing our human migrations from East Africa to all parts of the world.

Karen and I recommend the film Finding Altamira for some historical perspective on how professional hubris can get in the way of authentic knowledge.

Gaudi's architecture has given us the derogatory term'gaudy' that completely misses the point of his revolutionary concepts.

I think we will see this in Comillas.
We’ll be staying in the town of Santillano in Cantabria for our cave art exploration. A side trip over to Comillas will allow us to see some of Gaudi’s very first architecture. While Teilhard de Chardin is famous for saying the universe abhors a vacuum, Gaudi believed that nature abhors a straight line. If you can imagine what that does to architecture you can understand how Frank Gehry was chosen to design the Guggenheim Museum.

The Human Evolution Museum in Burgos. Phoenicians, Romans, and Arabs
are some of those who passed through Spain after the Neanderthals.
The archeological site at Atapuercas that
formed the basis for the Human Evolution Museum.
The town of Burgos in the province of Castile and Leon will give us a chance to visit their Human Evolution Museum as well as the archeological dig site where remains of pre-Homo Sapiens have been found. I think you know why we don't have such a museum in the United States. Burgos is also one of the stopping points on the Camino de Santiago (Pilgrimage Way). We hope to at least set a foot on the Camino even though we will not be walking it west to the ocean where St. Andrew's remains are believed to be enshrined in the cathedral.

East of Bilbao

The town and beach of San Sebastian.
After all the dust and bones of the archeological site, we will leave Castile and Leon and return to Basque territory where the coastal town of San Sebastian is said to be one of the most beautiful sites in the world. We will visit the town of Guernica which is famous for Picasso’s painting of the saturation bombing of the village. It is now home to a Peace Museum. We plan a day in Vittoria, a town that has been a leader in eco-friendly urban planning with a section where vehicles are banned.

Vittoria is an hour south of Bilbao.
While much planning has gone into preparing for this rendezvous with history, we are open to being unexpectedly surprised. One never knows when synchronicity will happen and awe will strike. Three years ago I could never have planned to arrive in Palermo, Sicily in time for the amazing Mediterranean exhibition that happened to be showing in the same building as the Palatine Chapel. That synchronicity provided a high point for my travels in Southern Italy.

I have made our own tour book for details about accommodations and travel
and with pockets to hold copies of pages from different travel books we have studied.