Green Heart of Italy

I began and ended my two-month Italian adventure in the center of the country – Tuscany and Umbria. Particularly in Umbria, I found concern for preserving and restoring the natural environment which is beautiful and productive.  Regional parks have been set aside and local groups have formed to mitigate destruction and contamination.

Orvieto - Tuscan Hill Town  

Set high on a hill, the Medieval town of Orvieto was easy to defend and was used by church authorities when they were in danger. The town's cathedral is a result of papal appreciation for the town's protection.

Steep cliffs surround Orvieto. 

The fertile Tuscan countryside below Orvieto.

 Built with alternating rows of white and dark gray stone, the cathedral stands out
from the dark tufa of which most other buildings are constructed.

The façade and interior Signorelle frescoes were the Roman Catholic
Church’s propaganda during the counter-reformation.



The bronze doors, added in the 20th century,
were designed and constructed by Italian sculptor Emilio Greco. 

As elsewhere in Italy, Orvieto is riddled with caves. It was interesting to discover that people in this region did not live in the caves but used them for work and production. The making of olive oil and of wine was especially suited to the cool temperature of the caves, as were the cultivation of pigeons and the creation of ceramics. The porousness of the tufa facilitated the sinking of water wells.

Examples of cave openings in the tufa.

The same olive press design seen in an ancient underground
cave is still utilized today throughout the region. 

The level of sophistication in creation of ceramics is evident in
 the use of molds for making votive products.

For a source of meat, pigeons were raised by carving places for then to roost.

The Etruscans

One of my reasons for visiting Tuscany was that 40% of my DNA matches that of people from this region. I chose Orvieto because of the presence of two archeological museums with Etruscan artifacts. The Etruscan civilization lasted for a thousand years, beginning in the 9^th century BC. The territory it covered and places affiliated with it was fluid and extended beyond present day Tuscany, Umbria, and parts of Lazio. The origin of the Etruscans continues to be a matter of debate. What is confirmed is that they were not Greek.

Rains of an Etruscan temple called Belvedere where many museum
artifacts were found.



In these examples of Etruscan ceramics, note the double spiral form
 used for the handles of the large pot. This form is found on many Etruscan ruins. 

This is authentic Etruscan design. After numerous visits to archeological museums
 I could distinguish between Etruscan and Greek ceramics.

Small votive images used at Belvedere. Note the sensuous
quality typical of Etruscan art.

International Exhibition

During 2014, fifty-seven artists from 22 countries had residencies at Arte Studio Ginestrelle in the regional park of Mount Subasio near the hill town of Assisi. During the first week of December, a curated exhibition of works created during the residencies was held at Le Logge gallery in Assisi with sponsorship and support from the town council.

As people gathered for the opening reception, I was pleased to see
 young families bringing their children.  

The support of Assisi council was manifested by the two men at far left and right.
Center are Marina Merli, Art Director for Arte Studio Ginestrelle, and a regional
 art critic who set the historical context for contemporary art. 

Women viewing my large banner, Perilous Majesty, reflecting
the benevolent and destructive aspects of volcanic mountains. 

Outside cover for my accordion book that shares the big steps in my
 creation of Perilous Majesty and Mount Subasio's impact on me. 

Assisi – Birthplace of St. Francis

When Francis rejected the wealth of his family and went off to live in a grotto and talk with the animals, the townspeople of his day thought he was a lunatic. Yet after his death they saw and cast him in a new light, along with Clare who founded the religious order of the Poor Clares. Today the town of Assisi is a place of pilgrimage, as Christians from around the world come to walk in the footsteps of Saint Francis.

It is not just Frances and Clare that lend an aura of sacredness to the town. The light pink stone used for construction creates a warm environment. The town's hilltop location guarantees light and open vistas. Because Francis used to greet people with, “The peace of our lord be with you.” Assisi has been called city of peace.

The local limestone used for construction in Assisi lends a
warm and gentle aura to the town.



I am particularly fond of the half arches on the left side of the
 church of Saint Clare where you can see the use of white, pink, and red limestone. 

While gallery sitting, I loved to look through Le Logge's metal gates
 at architectural details such as these three windows.

Among all the Madonna's in Assisi, my favorite is this contemporary one
given to the city by a South American country. 

Assisi's celebrated hero.

It is ironic that "the city of peace" is dominated by a monstrous fort
 used to protect nobility and church authorities.

A medieval scene inside the fort.

Yes, the fort had a military purpose.

View through one of the many "peep holes" necessary for surveillance.

At the top of the last tower to be built, there are
360 degree panoramic views.

Now my Italian adventure has ended and I am home in Eugene for the holidays and a wide open future.